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" Old cabinets are covered with whatever from hand oils to greasy smoke residue to scared gravy," says Dee. "You have actually got to get all that off or the paint won't stick." Back out the hinge screws from the cabinet frame and remove the doors. Working methodically from left to right, leading to bottom, label every one with a numbered piece of tape.


Set aside the shelf-hanging hardware. At your worktable, eliminate the pulls and hinges and save what's being reused. On the doors, transfer the number from the tape to the exposed wood under one hinge. Cover it with fresh tape. Open the windows for ventilation and put on security equipment. Scrub down all of the face frames, doors, drawer fronts, and shelving with an abrasive pad dipped in liquid deglosser. don t paint kitchen cabinets.


Before the deglosser vaporizes, quickly clean away the residue with another clean, deglosser-dampened rag. If you're transferring the hardware, fill the old screw holes with a two-part polyester wood or autobody filler. It sets in about 5 minutes, so mix only little batches. (Dee includes a pea-size little hardener to a golf-ball-size glob of filler.) The filler shrinks a bit, so overfill the holes a little.


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If it hardens totally, sand it smooth. Sand all surface areas with the grain using 100-grit paper - can you paint formica cabinet doors. To ensure no little bits of dust mar the finish, vacuum the cabinets inside and out, then rub them down with a tack fabric to capture any particles that the vacuum misses. Dee states, "Hand sanding is the finest strategy on oak since you can push the paper into the open grain, which a power sander or sanding block will miss." When using a tack cloth, unfold each brand-new fabric fully, to one layer, then crumple it to get the best dust collection surface.




However they simply sink into open-grained woods such as oak, ash, mahogany, or hickory. can you paint cabinets without sanding them. Brushing putty, the pudding-thick, oil-based finish Dee used on these oak cabinets, fills the grain as it primes the wood. A couple of cautions: It should be applied with a good-quality nylon-polyester brush, which you'll need to discard after each coat.


Beginning at the top of the cabinet, brush on the primer or brushing putty throughout the grain, then "tip off" pass the brush lightly over the damp surface in the instructions of the grain. Always tip off in a single stroke from one end to the other. Provide it a day to dry (how long does it take to paint cabinets).


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Sand any profiled surface areas with a medium-grit sanding sponge. When you're done, whatever ought to be glass-smooth. Follow the underlying structure of the cabinet or door with the brush. emerald urethane paint for cabinets. Where a rail (horizontal piece) butts into a stile (vertical piece), for example, paint the rail first, overlapping somewhat onto the stile.


Where a stile butts into a rail, paint the stile initially. Squeeze a thin bead of latex caulk into any open joints. Pull the suggestion as you go, then smooth the caulk with a moist finger. Fill any little damages, scratches, or dings with vinyl spackle, smoothed flat with a putty knife.


Spot-prime the spackle, and any areas where the brushed-on guide is "burned through," with a spray can of fast-drying oil-based primer - giani kitchen cabinet paint. Wait an hour, then sand the guide gently with 280-grit paper. Vacuum all surface areas, and clean with a tack cloth. The hole in a caulk tube's pointer should be no bigger than the pointer of a sharp pencil.

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